Planting, Growing, and Caring for Caladiums
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Looking for a dynamite display of color and foliage for that shady area in your yard or garden? Look no further than caladium plants with their heart-shaped leaves. Learn how to grow and care for these leafy perennials.
About Caladiums
Cladiums are nothing if not colorful. The festive foliage of this tropical plant—from its bright midribs to its mottled, veined, and striped leaves in shades of green, white, pink, rose, or red with contrasting margins—adds interest and, when
set in motion by a breeze, energy to any setting. And there are thousands of choices!
Caladium is a genus of tropical perennial plants in the family Araceae. They are commonly known as Elephant Ears, but other plants also use that name, like Alocasia, Colocasia–the famous giant black elephant ear–and Xanthosoma. Check for the Caladium name on the product description to be sure. The most cultivated species is Caladium x hortulanum, aka C. bicolor, which is also sometimes called angel wings, heart of Jesus, or mother-in-law plant
Caladiums bear two main leaf shapes, fancy and lance (or strap). Fancy-leaf types produce large, heart-shaped leaves supported on petioles that meet the leaves in mid-underside. These caladiums thrive in semi shade and may reach 12 to 30 inches in height, depending on the cultivar and growing conditions. Lance- or strap-leaf types have long, narrow foliage with ruffled edges on petioles that meet them at the center edge of the underside. These usually top out at less than 12 inches tall. Cut leaves can last several days in a vase of fresh flower arrangements.
Native to Central and South America, these tropical tubers are hardy to USDA zone 7 and warmer. So, many gardeners who live north of zone 7 will grow caladium as an annual. Or, the tubers can be dug up for fall and stored over winter as bulbs. They provide impressive color and size while growing in those shadier parts of your garden or beds where other plants don’t want to thrive.
But many folks grow caladiums in containers, putting the colorful pots in shady spots. Caladiums are also popular as colorful houseplants indoors.
A Note About Caladium Tubers
Caladium tubers are covered in buds; basically, the larger the tuber, the more foliage it will produce. They are graded into four sizes, with the smallest being #2, then moving up to #1, Jumbo, and occasionally, Mammoth.
Mixed bags of caladium tubers sold at big box stores are often smaller #2 tubers. They’ll still grow and provide beautiful foliage, but likely not as much of it. Expect to pay premium prices for the larger #1 and up selections.
To show off your caladiums, plant several tubers of the same variety in one location and create a large, impactful show of foliage, along with ferns or coleus. They also look great paired with impatiens or fuchsias, whose flowers complement the caladiums’ assorted pinks, reds, greens, and whites.
Planting
Not many plants will live in the less-sunny spots of your property and still bring such vivid color and interest. Caladiums like partial shade the best. A site with 2 to 4 hours of gentle morning sun and afternoon shade or dappled all-day light is prime. Being tropical plants, caladiums thrive in heat and humidity but usually do not fare well in direct sunlight. For
the best performance in color and growth, provide dappled or moderate shade and protection from the hot afternoon sun.
Older varieties won’t do well in full sun and can show leaf scorch. However, some newer varieties can handle partial sun quite well, especially in more northern areas where the sun’s rays are less powerful.
Give them a site with well-draining soil, preferably light in texture and rich in organic matter. As tropical plants, caladiums like evenly moist soil. Provide ample compost or other easily broken down organic material like shredded leaves. They enjoy slightly acidic to acidic soil best, with a pH of 5.5 to 6.5.
Before planting, prepare each tuber for optimal foliage production: First, find the largest and/or central bud, which is usually surrounded by several smaller eyes, or buds. You want to remove the largest bud because its presence inhibits the growth of the smaller buds and, thus, more leaves. Using the tip of a sharp knife, cut out the largest bud, being careful not to harm the remaining buds. Check this page from Clemson Cooperative Extension to learn about removing the central bud when planting to get more foliage.
When to Plant Caladiums
For most of the United States, caladiums should be woken up in early to mid-spring indoors. Start them in pots 4 to 6 weeks before your last frost date. In more tropical climates, they can be planted directly outdoors once soil temperatures have warmed to 50 degrees to 70 degrees (ideally, the latter).
Don’t be in too much of a rush to get those caladiums outdoors, whether planting bulbs or setting containerized plants outside. They won’t grow much, if at all, until the temperature and soil warms.
How to Plant Caladiums
Caladiums are usually purchased as tubers. However, some garden centers will have started plants available as nursery stock, which can be transplanted outside the same as any other plant.
To plant caladium tubers indoors:
- Prepare enough containers for your tubers. Small tubers can share a pot, but larger ones should have their own. Any high-quality potting mix is fine. Amend it with vermiculite or perlite to help with drainage if needed.
- Set all your tubers out for inspection, right side up. To tell which side is “up,” look for eyes and a knobby, bumpy appearance. That bumpy side with the eyes is the top.
- Check for any rot, dehydration, or other problems. Discard any tubers which are not firm.
- Make a hole in the potting mix and place the tuber, right side up, in the soil. Cover with about an inch of potting mix and water so the soil is moist but not wet. Use gentle but firm pressure to seat the tuber and prevent air pockets.
- Place the pots in a warm and bright location. Caladium tubers are sleepy and like to hit the snooze button. They may take 4-6 weeks to send up new growth.
Caladiums started in pots can be transplanted directly into garden beds when the soil and weather are warm. Plant them deep enough that the tuber is about two inches below the soil level.
They can also be moved to larger pots and grown in a container garden. If you have heavy clay soil, the container can be sunk into the ground, mimicking in-ground planting but leaving the plant in the pot. Then lift the entire pot in the fall.
Types
- ‘White Queen’ is a classic with large leaves displaying green margins, white leaf bodies, and red veining.
- ‘Rose Glow’ does well in containers or in-ground. Bicolor leaves look like a slice of watermelon–green at the edges and dusky pink in the middle.
- ‘Candyland’ tolerates more sunshine and displays artistic three-color leaves of deep green, white, and pink.
- ‘Moonlight’ is another more sun-tolerant variety. Its leaves are almost entirely white, with only the edge and veins outlined in green.
- ‘Aaron’: white leaves with green margins; some sun tolerance
- ‘Candidum’: white leaves with dark green veins
- ‘Carolyn Whorton’: pink leaves with red veins and green margins
- ‘Fannie Munson’: mostly pink leaves with rose-color veins and green margins
- ‘Red Flash’: white-marked green leaves with red veins and wide green margins
- ‘Candidum Jr.’: white leaves with dark green veins
- ‘Gingerland’: creamy white leaves with red speckles and green margins
- ‘Miss Muffet’: lime green to chartreuse leaves speckled with maroon or deep red
- ‘Pink Symphony’: pink leaves with bright green veins
- ‘Postman Joyner’: red leaves with wide green margins
- ‘Red Frill’: red leaves with dark green margins
Andy Wilcox
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