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Build a native bee house, and you will enjoy more blooms and greater harvests! Similar to birdhouses, bee houses (also called bee hotels) are meant to increase the pollination of your garden plants by super-pollinating solitary bees, such as mason bees and leafcutter bees. Learn why and how to build a bee house!
What Is a Bee House?
Bee houses (also called bee hotels or bug hotels) are similar to birdhouses, but instead of attracting birds, they attract native solitary bee species. Unlike honey bees, these solitary bees are extremely docile and up to three times more effective as pollinators. No, you won’t get any honey, but you will enjoy better flowers, thriving plants, and healthier vegetables in your garden!
Some of the most common solitary bees are mason bees, leafcutter bees, and miner bees. Many of these native bees are already a part of the local ecosystem, but providing them with a perfect place to nest in your backyard can improve their lives and yours.
Bee houses consist of a wooden, birdhouse-like structure containing native bee nesting materials—typically hollow reeds or cardboard tubes. They are the perfect habitat for solitary, hole-nesting bees, who are some of the best pollinators around.
Watch the video below to learn how to build your own bug hotel (for bees and other beneficial insects).
6 Tips for Managing a Successful Bee Hotel
Here are some great tips for keeping your native bee house buzzing:
1. Avoid bee houses that are too large
While a bee house that is 4 feet wide and 6 feet tall looks great, draws a lot of attention, and raises awareness of native bees, this size is much too ambitious and will likely become a burden to maintain. Like birdhouses, which ought to be cleaned out at the end of each year, bee houses need to be refreshed annually with new nesting materials. Bee hotel maintenance takes little effort overall, but consider the time you can devote to managing the bees that move in.
Be sure to choose a bee house size that matches what the surrounding area can provide. For example, a stand of flowering trees and bushes can provide more pollen than a meadow of flowers can, meaning a larger house would be appropriate for the former.
2. Protect nesting materials from wind, rain, and birds
Hole-nesting bees need a place to live that’s dry and safe. The ideal bee house will have a solid outer structure that has a 2- to 3-inch overhang, which will protect nesting materials from bad weather. If birds attack the nesting holes, use a 1-inch-wide wire cloth and bubble it around the bee house. Do not install wire cloth flush against the nesting holes, as this will obstruct the bees from entering. Bees need some space for landing and taking off!
3. Provide nesting holes made of the right materials in the proper size range
Natural, locally available nesting materials are best. For hole-nesting bees, cardboard tubes and lake reeds in the right size range are readily available online.
Avoid bamboo and plastic straws, as these do not let enough moisture escape, causing problems for developing bees. Nesting holes should be between 4mm and 10mm in size and should be about 6 inches long. (Nesting holes that are too shallow will skew the sex range of the next generation’s bees.) Many bamboo shoots are too large for any North American bee to use.
Not all native solitary bees use the same nesting materials, so it’s a good idea to provide a range of options (as pictured below) to cater to all the locals.
This bee hotel provides a number of different nesting materials for inhabitants.
4. Location and a word about predatory wasps
Orient the bee house to face the morning sun, as hole-nesting bees need the sun’s warmth to give them energy to fly. Placing two bee houses—each facing a slightly different direction—can produce even better results.
Most native bees prefer afternoon shade, but too much shade could attract hole-nesting wasps. Solitary wasps are generally considered beneficial predators in a garden, as they attack pests like caterpillars, grubs, and aphids. However, they may also prey on the bee pupae in your bee house.
5. Protect developing bee larvae during the winter
Make sure that your bee house is accessible so that you can easily remove filled nesting materials and store them in a warm, dry place. You’ll want to keep nesting materials in locations that have similar temperatures as the outdoors, like a garden shed or unheated garage. Removing and protecting filled nesting holes in something like a fine mesh bag helps to keep small parasitic wasps from attacking larvae.
Keep an eye on the filled nesting materials, as your bees may be a species (such as leafcutter bees) that produce multiple generations per season.
The inside of a bee’s nesting tube. Photo by Crown Bees.
6. Harvest bee cocoons each spring
After protecting and storing filled nesting materials over the winter, open materials and harvest cocoons in the early spring. If you can, organize and separate cocoons based on appearance and when their nesting holes were capped. With proper care, these cocoons will develop into a new generation of native bee pollinators and residents of your bee house!
Having grown up in rural New Hampshire, Chris has a great appreciation for all things outdoors, especially when it comes to native flora and fauna.Chris is an avid gardener, maintaining a sm...
Thought I'd answer, since you never got a reply. Bee houses are where the bees put their larvae (babies) to grow up. Solitary bees don't live in houses like social bees live in hives, they just live out and about. They don't mind the weather, or they'd sit somewhere more protected.
A related fact: birds don't live in nests. Some birds make nests for their babies, but all parties leave the nest once the babies are grown. They just sleep perched in trees.
Hope this helps!
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<span>Melissa</span>Wed, 03/24/2021 - 08:17
I found this link explaining why it’s important to harvest the bee cocoons. I never knew this was something that needed to be done prior to reading this article. Crownbees.com/why-harvest-bee-cocoons
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<span>Patty</span>Fri, 05/05/2023 - 10:05
Well, Crown Bees & others stand to make a lot of money if you have to buy their products, follow their tips. I guess it helps with survival rates of bees, but I don't have the time to extract cocoons, wash them in sand, store in my refrigerator (yuck), etc. I keep them outside and let them live the natural life, and about 80% survive through next Spring. My work is in April only, when I release the shelves in the house, and clean the unassembled shelves. I always get more bees coming back than I have spaces for them. Nature has a good way for survival.
many of the practices discussed in this video (using bamboo, hanging from a string, not replacing materials each year) can kill the bees you’re trying to help. Plus reusing materials each year developed spider mites that kill bees. Please delete this video and add more complete information.
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<span>Tara</span>Fri, 07/31/2020 - 14:17
how far apart should bee houses be placed? 1 per garden? multiple?
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<span>Ann</span>Sun, 06/26/2022 - 03:17
It’s July 1, and I’m hanging up my first bee
House. I have mostly bumble bees but a few that look like honey bees. What are the cycles and how long are they? What is my part in this? How do I know when to clean the tubes? Replace with new ones?
Really new at this! Thank you.
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<span>Kaylo</span>Thu, 06/18/2020 - 17:09
Nope. Don't think I want to open the bee cocoons, and "harvest" anything. I will put out the bee house, but then they are on their own!
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<span>Debbie</span>Tue, 06/02/2020 - 23:35
Hello. I just recently bought a native beehouse at Costco that I hung next to my lavender bushes. I Water them every morning and walk through swarms of bumblebees and have never been stung. Am I putting myself at risk by putting the box right there next to them? Do I have to worry now that they will be territorial when I’m near that box and risk being stung?
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<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a>Fri, 06/19/2020 - 17:24
Hi, Debbie, I'm not totally clear about your question but here is some background which may help. Your bee boxes are for solitary bees; bumblebees are a different type of bee which has a hive and a queen. Solitary bees are NOT territorial nor aggressive and won't sting because they do not have a queen to protect.They are the big pollinators (not bumblebees) and they are too busy going about their work to bother with humans. They won't sting you unless you squish them or threaten them!
Bumble bees are a social species, with one egg laying queen; the hive normally consists of 50 to 200 bees. The stinger of a bumblebee has no barbs, unlike a honeybee. And bumblebees rarely sting but they will if provoked or made aggressive. First, it is important to be calm when working with bumblebees. Don't wave your arm around or wear heavy perfumes. One way to avoid getting stung is to stay away from their hive. If your flowers or bee house is too near their hive, that could indeed be of some concern. Put your solitary beebox away from their hive.
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