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Ready to learn how to build a chicken run? Giving your chickens an enclosed area where they can run around outdoors while feeling safe from predators makes them feel secure and happy. Here are five steps on how to construct a chicken run—including photos and a special guide.
What is a Chicken Run? Why Should I Build a Chicken Run?
A “chicken run” is a predator-proof fenced area attached to a chicken coop, the structure where your chickens live. (See how to build a chicken coop.)
Although most predators hunt by night, there are daytime threats to a backyard flock, including dogs, foxes, hawks, and eagles, so a chicken run will keep chickens safe. Read about the common predators of chickens.
A chicken run also keeps your lawn, garden, and landscaping safe from your chickens, who take great delight in digging up small plants, munching on leaves, scratching through mulch, and making a happy mess. Finally, a safe pen will also ensure that your chickens don’t wander into the road or into a neighbor’s garden or onto their front porch.
Where Should a Chicken Run Be Located?
Your chicken run should be attached to your coop, with a little door on the side of the coop that will allow the chickens to come and go during the day. They will need access to the coop to lay their eggs, and might choose to spend time in the coop on cold or rainy days.
In warmer climates, consider either building your pen under some trees (or adding some trees after your pen is built). In colder climates, positioning your run in full sun is a good idea, as the chickens will be able to warm up in the sun all day.
How to Build a Chicken Run
Materials:
The exact quantities will depend on the size run you decide to build!
4x4 wooden fence posts
Optional: Quikrete (or other concrete mix)
2x4 boards or 1x6 boards
1/2” welded wire fencing or 1” welded wire fencing
Staples (U-shaped nails)
Tools:
Shovel
Hammer
Saw
Wood nails/screws
Post hole digger
Cordless screwdriver
Level
Step 1: Plan How Big the Chicken Run Should Be
The size of the run you will need to build depends on the size of your flock. The rule of thumb is to allow a minimum of 10 square feet of outdoor run space per chicken. So that means if you have 10 chickens, you should plan on a pen that’s at least 10x10, or 100 square feet. But before you sketch out your plan and assemble your supplies, try laying out some boards on the ground to get an idea of just how big (or small!) the area is and adjust accordingly. In general, the more space you can allow your chickens, the better. And don’t forget to build bigger with extra room in anticipation of your flock possibly growing as the years pass!
Step 2: Set Your Posts
The first step in building your run is to dig holes for your fence posts. Sinking them in concrete will ensure that they stay put.
Use a level to be sure they are all set in straight, and a measuring tape to be sure they are set equidistant from each other—about 6 or 8 feet apart is a good distance (no more than 10 feet). Set around the perimeter of the area. Think about where you want your gate positioned, and place two posts closer together, marking this place.
Start hammering the posts into the holes, making sure to hammer them at least 1 foot deep into the ground. One-third of the post should be below ground level. Once your posts are set, cut the tops to level them and then screw boards across the top for added stability before you attach your fencing.
Step 3: Attach the Wire Fencing
For a predator-proof pen, you will need to use either 1/2” or 1” welded wire fencing. That will keep out predators, including small ones such as weasels and larger ones like bobcats. (If you have bears or other large predators in your area, you might instead consider using a chain link dog run for your chickens and then just wrap the chain link with the smaller gauge welded wire to keep the smaller predators out as well.)
Once the posts are set, attach the wire fencing to the posts using staples (u-shaped nails ) and a hammer. Staple the mesh at every 6 inches, securing it tightly to the posts. Make sure that the wire is attached to the chicken coop itself as well. Be sure to dig a trench around the perimeter of your run and sink the fencing down a few inches. That will prevent digging predators like coyotes and dogs from gaining access under the fencing.
Cover the top! Your run will need to be covered on top as well to prevent climbing predators like foxes and raccoons, as well as aerial predators including hawks, eagles, and owls.
Step 4: Create Your Frame
Once the fencing is up, use 2x4 or 1x6 boards to create your frame, screwing the boards horizontally into your posts along the bottom, middle, and top of the fencing for added stability and sandwiching the fencing in between the posts and framing for extra security.
Step 5: Add a Door
Once you have the framing done, add a door (don’t forget to use a spring so the door shuts automatically behind you as you go in and out of your run to prevent your chickens from escaping!).
Hang the gate using three gate hinges, attaching a latch on the outside.
Extra tips and tricks
Although keeping your chickens inside a chicken run instead of letting them roam around freely can greatly decrease the number of safety risks, you should also consider adding extra safety measures depending on the type of predators in your area. This could be a layer of hardware cloth, which can be useful against raccoons and foxes.
Even if your area is relatively safe, keep your chickens inside the chicken coop overnight.
Make sure to double- and triple-check your plan and measurements so you don’t accidentally end up with an oddly shaped structure due to rushing the planning phase.
Don’t forget about enrichment! Chickens love playing, so consider adding some fun elements to your chicken run. A chicken swing or a treat ball are just some of the many ways to bring some fun into the lives of your birds.
If you have a coop, you’re probably already well aware of the need to place roosting bars inside your chicken coop; however, you can also place some outside as well in your chicken run!
Make sure to keep chicken feed out of your chicken run; although some feeders that conceal the feed might be safe, keeping the feed inside your coop can help prevent unwanted rodents gain interest in your flock’s roaming space.
Guide to Building a Chicken Run
There are so many ways to build your chicken run. This beginner-friendly step-by-step guide by Wire Fence shows a similar approach using helpful. diagrams.
It can also be useful to dive into the depths of the internet and browse through chicken runs created by others, as you might get some ideas that you can implement in your own project.
Lisa Steele, is 5th generation chicken keeper, Master Gardener, and author of the popular books Fresh Eggs Daily: Raising Happy, Healthy Chickens Naturally and Gardening with Chickens. Read More from Lisa Steele
The only thing I would add is that if you live in a snowy area, don't do a flat roof. I have a flat roof and it's been horrible with snow on it. I cover the roof with a tarp to keep out moisture. I had a foot and a half of snow on it, which had to be removed with backs of rakes while I was on a ladder in the snow. Not fun. We've had snow all winter here in northern Nevada. Removed several times. Along with digging paths to the doors. I'll be putting a regular pitched roof with recycled metal probably. Not doing this again. So if you have weather, build accordingly. Remember, chickens are a lot of work, every day. Rain, snow or shine.
I used cattle panels arched over a wooden framework, like a hoop house. It is 8’x about 14’, with 1/2” hardware cloth buried 1 ft. dow, 1 ft. out around the perimeter. Hardware cloth 2 ft. up from the ground on the sides, and chicken wire covers the rest. I can walk inside easily, as the hoop is about 6’ high. The run connects to my coop with an automatic chicken door. The other end has a people door. We have coyotes, raccoons, eagles, hawks, and I’ve been seeing martins or weasels lately. Nothing gets into the run.
I wish more people made coops and runs as safe and beautiful as yours! I connected raised bed planters to the front of my coop and run to deter diggers and utilize the garden space ! My friends tease me saying my chickens live in a palace not a coop!
This is the best place to learn everything about keeping chickens safe from predators, inside the coop as well as in the run. We have landed on a plan making use of the hard wooden raised beds along the edges where hardwood, wire, & ground meet.
i’m excited to have more dedicated garden space that can also be a key part of the safety plan Take care , Debbie S.S.
How tall did you build your run? And how deep did you bury the posts in the quickcrete? I’m 5’8 and bought 2 rolls of 36” chicken wire but am not sure if a) 6ft is tall enough and b) if I should get 8ft posts or 10ft posts! I do intend to put a foot of different wire horizontally in the ground to prevent predators from digging so that won’t take from the side wire.
Hi! I was wondering how tall the run was? Also curious about the overall cost of the project if the main thing invested in are the posts & chickenwire? Thank you!
Thank you for this post. Can you share with me what you used to cover the roof? We are in the process of building a 24x16 run and can’t decide what to use on the roof. We just lost one of our 15 week chickens to a hawk. Devastating. No more free ranging without supervision so we want to build them a large run. We have 7 chickens now.
Stretching taunt monofilament fishing line over the top of the chicken run will keep out hawk, owls and eagles. Crisscross lines about 4-6 feet apart and the raptors can see it and won’t come thru it. Make sure it is higher than your hat ;-)